It’s been approximately six years since I started woodworking. Once and for all, I’ve grown out of the nylon tool tote I bought from Rings End all those years ago. So it’s time for a DIY toolbox.

It goes without saying, but any tool storage container should be sized to fit the tools it’s meant to hold. Specifically, the interior length should allow the longest tool to easily enter and exit (phrasing?) and the interior height should accommodate the tallest tool and any racks or tills. The interior width, however, is determined based on all the tools to be held.
In this case, the interior dimensions of 21.5″ x 9″ x 9″ accommodate a half-back saw that is about 21″ long and the combined height of a No. 5 jack plane and chisel tray. The width is based the till for that half back saw, plus that No. 5 jack plane, plus a large router plane (with 1/4″ spaces for French fitting in between to keep everything snug).
I went back and forth on how to do the floor of the tool box. I briefly considered 1/2″ plywood captured in a rabbet or groove, but I was impatient and assembled the case before plowing the groove. So tongue and groove pine nailed to the carcass it was. It doesn’t match the case, but this is a utilitarian piece.

I find the most joy in the repetitive tasks of hand tool woodworking. Sawing, chopping and shaping are great, but planing is where my heart truly lies. And none is more enjoyable than the process of planing tongues and grooves with the specialty tongue and groove plane. It has an opposable fence and cuts both parts of the joint.

In prior projects with tongue and groove floors, I typically work with the boards that I have and then trim off any extra. Which is fine when there is a skirt to hide the unevenness. But there is no skirt here, so I matched the width on the outer boards, and then matched the width on the next two boards, and I’ll size the middle board to fit. It will be rather narrow, but symmetrical nonetheless. You know, for my neuroses.
I’ll send pics when it’s further along.
JPG
I am using that plane to make siding. Siding. For. Hours.
Still a fun plane.
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You could put a skirt on the bottom to hide the pine.
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You nailed the dovetails? You obviously do not understand what a dovetail is or how it works.
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“Dovetailing nails” is a term which means angling the nail so that it holds better than just driving it straight. Moron. Go back to your table saw and lumberjocks forum.
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I’ve always heard it referred to as “toenailing” when you drive a nail in at an angle to fasten something.
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You could be right. For some reason, I’ve always thought the term “toenailing” was specifically reserved for joining two timbers at a right angle, and done from the inside of the joint. Doesn’t change the fact that Bwn is a moron, though.
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Thanks for this text, it’s always a joy to a Craftsmens projects.
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Those Lie Nielson tongue and groove planes are a treat to use. I ended up purchasing both sizes for different jobs. As to angling the nails so they oppose being drawn out quite often I have heard the term skew nailing here in Australia and it got me thinking about the different terminology for the same thing in different parts of the world so I checked one of the old Australian technical publications I have. The terms Skew, Dovetailed and Oblique were all listed against an illustration of what you have done to ensure the base of your toolbox stays put. Bet your box will outlast all of us .
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