I too read that recent Popular Woodworking online article about Taytools hand planes. I’m not much of a tool collector (I have a spare Stanley No. 5 for my out and about toolbox and a cadaver of an extra Stanley No. 4 to scavenge parts if necessary), but I couldn’t help myself at the Amazon price for a No. 4. I’ve wasted far more money on other tools, after all.
The No. 5 was sold out and, besides, I have a No. 5 I love already.
Let me start by saying that, for the price, this seems like a pretty good tool. I paid US$65 and got something that felt solid in my hand. Would I recommend it for a new woodworker with limited space to work in? Very probably. I think it’s a valiant effort, all told. But let’s explore a bit further.
I’ve restored between 5-10 antique Stanley planes and setting this thing up for relatively refined work took about an hour. The most work went into the cap iron (about 20 minutes), which started out a bit rustic. I also had to grind a bevel onto it, which went slowly and carefully to avoid removing too much material. The cutting iron was ground hollow and only took about 10 minutes to flatten and another 5 or so to sharpen and introduce the back bevel with the ruler trick.
I’ve seen worse. Much worse.
The plane’s sole was also ground pretty hollow, which is fine. I haven’t fully dressed the sole for smoothing yet, which I plan to do to 220 grit. The manufacturer seems to have erred on the side of hollow grinding where possible. For the record, I am 100% okay with this approach.
Three things about the Taytools plane stand out to me, though.
First, the mouth of the plane is cavernous. On my Type 11 Stanley, the mouth is a smidge under 3/16, and closes up nice and tight with minimal frog advancement.
The pitting doesn’t affect performance. Stop complaining.
Compare that to the Taytools version. The mouth is over 1/4 wide. Now, 1/6 may not sound like a lot, but it’s noticeable (and a 33% increase!). If I wanted this plane for general work, it’d do fine. But as I’ve noted before, smoothing takes a tight mouth. I had to move the frog significantly forward to close up the mouth. Will this result in chatter? Who knows?
Notice the scratch pattern around the edges from testing the flatness.
Second, the frog adjustment mechanism is just garbage. Novel, but garbage. The yoke is cast into the frog itself and the tapped hole for the adjustment screw was not parallel to the bed. This meant the frog kept binding as I turned the screw. I eventually gave up and removed the frog adjustment screw entirely.
Finally, the plane is longer than a vintage No. 4. Not by much, but I could see it making an incremental difference over the life of the tool.
I would be remiss if I didn’t weigh them both. I prefer the lighter Stanley No. 4 Bailey pattern plane to the modern Bedrock copies for smoothing tasks. My current smoother clocks in at a manageable 1615 grams.
That’s 57 oz or 3 lbs 9 oz for the imperial types.
Surprisingly, the Taytools No. 4 is only 1890 grams (aka, 67 oz or 4 lbs 3 oz). A bit over half a pound heavier than my Type 11 No. 4. Not bad – and a far cry from the advertised 5 lbs. of some modern Bedrock copy No. 4’s.
It lost a couple of grams when I ground the cap iron, in fairness.
So, again, is this I tool I would gift to a beginner woodworker interested in apartment woodworking on a budget? Yes. But that “yes” assumes the beginner has basic knowledge of how to prepare and sharpen a plane iron. I don’t think the rustic cap iron would be much more of a nuisance when shavings got clogged. And everything else seemed in relatively-good working order (apprentice marks and all).
And setting this tool up would be a hell of a lot less effort than fully restoring a swap meet piece.