The second mirror for the upstairs bathroom is complete and I’m as pleased as I can be with the result. Everything seems balanced out now.
Color match is what it is.
In making the second mirror, I took no chances and went straight to a rabbeting bit in the trim router. There is something to be said for ultra-repeatablility and ease.
Color match is what it is.
There are a great many power tools I’ve given up since I first started woodworking, but I would rather die than be without my rabbeting bit and flush trim bit (both of which have a place in a hand tool-focused shop).
Once upon a time, I bought a twelve foot long board of 6/4 cherry that was supposed to be the top of the reclaimed cherry console table. But as fate would have it, there was just enough of the original table to make the full reclaimed version, so this board sat in my workshop for night on a year. I couldn’t sleep last night, so this board’s time came at about 3am.
The basic bench takes shape.
The entire bench is made from that one board. The top consists of two edge-jointed boards and is about 10 3/8″ x 1 1/2″ x 49″. The legs are 2 1/2″ x 1 1/2″ and angled at 10 degrees. The overall bench is 19 1/4″ high, which is my preferred height for sitting benches (and saw benches, at that).
The legs are beyond friction fit in their lap joints with the benchtop. I went through two pine beater blocks with lump hammer persuasion just to get them to seat in a dry fit. A small part of me wants to make this a knock down bench, but it is compact enough to be portable even when glued together.
As I was making the bench, I had the Saalburg workbench in my mind’s eye. But looking at it now, I don’t think one could ever mistake the two. In any event, this bench is more for sitting than for woodworking. I’m not saying I won’t bore some peg holes. I just don’t plan do much more than home handiwork on it.
I have some sweet square head lag screws left over from a prior project that would be perfect for reinforcing the glue joint connecting the legs to the bench top. But I still think there should be some gussets. I wonder if it’s worth doing drawbored mortise and tenons or just simple lap joints with glue and screws.
I remembered this time to leave enough extra to make the cutoff easy.
I’ll take some more pictures when I decide what to do. Until then, I plan to get back to dimensioning the white oak for the lower shelf on the bathroom vanity.
A piece of material sewn into a garment to strengthen or enlarge a part of it, such as the collar of a shirt or the crotch of an undergarment. A bracket strengthening an angle of a structure.
This is a gusset.
Joining two or more pieces together is an interesting endeavor. Some joints, like dovetails or mortise and tenon joinery, have tremendous mechanical strength (especially when force would largely be applied in the direction of that mechanical strength). Other joints, like rabbets and dadoes, offer greater strength than a simple butt joint, but nonetheless require some fasteners to achieve a durable connection.
But what about butt joints? In theory, a face grain to face grain glue-up using a modern PVA glue with upwards of 3,000 psi in glue strength should do fine on its own. Prudence dictates adding a metal fastener or two perpendicular to the mating surface to prevent the joint from sliding over time under normal force. Forces are not uni-directional all the time, however. And specific woods are not ideal for every application.
With a 4 sq. inch mating surface, the glue theoretically asserts 12,000 lbs of force at the glue line.
Take, for instance, the above-pictured “saw bench”. Although patterned somewhat on the Schwarz design (plans are here), it is assuredly not a piece of shop equipment. Made from Eastern White Pine, it’s instead a portable sitting bench for a buddy who is about have a child. I like the design, as it’s easy to knock together in a leisurely day. Plus, it’s so damned comfortable.
A proper Schwarz saw bench in the background.
Under no circumstances can this bench collapse with a baby in the picture. So I added some gussets to stabilize the legs laterally. I might not have done so in another, harder material. In fact, had this been oak or ash, I might have instead just screwed twice into the face of the joint and put a third screw in from the bottom. But pine splits with too many fasteners per square inch (even when pre-drilled).
So next time you need to stabilize a joint from forces in a direction other than the mechanical strength of the joint, consider adding a gusset. It might just save a baby’s life.
It’s easy to take for granted certain luxuries. Electricity, clean water, indoor plumbing, HVAC, etc. But there are certain modern amenities that you don’t realize you miss until they’re gone. Like a bathroom mirror.
The frame matches the vanity!
I’ve never made a picture frame before. And I’m 100% certain this is not the way to frame a picture. That’s what miters are for. But mirrors are heavier than pictures and the frame needed to be stronger than a simple miter. I guess I could have splined the mitres, but that is power tool claptrap. So I went with lap joints, reinforced with pegs to match the vanity drawbores.
New phone, new camera.
White Oak is difficult enough to work with hand tools when it’s kiln dried. But imagine cutting 8 linear feet of rabbets with a moving fillister plane and a mild hangover. It’s a freaking nightmare. But with perseverance, you can turn this:
Mildly case-hardened, but all in all not too bad.
Simple enough glue-up.
Attaching the mirror was a bit of a head-scratcher. My solution was to use caulk that dries clear and just schmoo the thing in place. Clear-drying caulk is a veritable miracle, btw. But it requires a small bit of faith because it goes on white.
Cork pads are probably in the wrong place, but they cover the pegs on the back side.
That’s just one of two mirrors needed. So, learning from the process, I’ll cut the corner joinery first and the rabbet second. I think.
Or maybe I’ll just buy a table saw with a dado stack.
I had planned to write this whole post about wood movement and using tabletop anchors in finalizing the bathroom vanity project, but there is nothing I could say that Paul Sellers hasn’t said already (and better).
So, if you don’t know about wooden tabletop connectors, stop what you’re doing and go watch this Paul Sellers video. After that, if you are so inclined, enjoy this picture of the undercarriage of the vanity. Tabletop connectors not only hold the top on the vanity, but also anchor the entire assembly to the wall stud.
Deep sinks are a PITA but worth it in the end.
Don’t forget to use brass fasteners in white oak. Steel and white oak do not play nicely together.
If a coherent philosophy exists in my woodworking, it’s this: “Why build when you can overbuild?”. Or, perhaps, it’s “Could we? (not should we)?”. Either way, it’s resulted in the most hilariously stout bathroom vanity of all time.
Glamour shot just before the sinks go in.
The entire thing is quartersawn white oak. The leg frames are entirely 8/4″ stock (final thickness of about 1 15/16″) and the top is 6/4″ stock (final thickness of just over 1 1/4″). Everything is stub tenoned and drawbored with 3/8″ birch dowels and Titebond 1. The long rails are even double drawbored front and back.
It’s not a workbench, but it might as well be.
I chose to drawbore the mortise and tenon joints for two reasons. First, there are no lengthwise lower stretchers, so it needed the extra rigidity. Any lower shelf I make will just sit on top of the short rails of the leg frames. But, more importantly, I don’t own any 60″ clamps so clamping this thing together would have been awkward and unreliable.
Drawboring also makes assembly less stressful. You can move the constituent pieces individually and then assemble in situ at a leisurely pace. Sure: the assembled frame probably would have made it through the door from the hallway anyway. But who knows (and why risk it)?
The net result is a piece of furniture with a frame that will never come apart. Even if I want it to.
How the tabletop connects to the frame is a different story altogether, though. More on that later.
It’s been a while since my last blog post, but I’ve been far from idle in terms of woodworking. First off, I finished up the new office desk and it works great. The Eastern White Pine is much easier on the elbows than red oak, and sitting on a stool (rather than an Aeron Chair) has helped my posture immensely.
I’m nearing the end of the the bathroom vanity build, which I’ll post in more detail about later in the week. It’s a complicated project in quartersawn white oak that really does a number on my edge tools. I’ve recently switched to a Lie-Nielsen honing guide (which my sister-in-law bought me for the holidays) and the angles don’t match the cheap-o guide I’ve been using forever. They are, in fact, about 5° difference (e.g., 40° on the old guide roughly corresponds to 35° on the LN).
Sure, I could have soldiered on doing the math every time. But thinking is the bane of efficiency in the shop. So I made a new sharpening jig out of sweet, sweet mahogany. This jig is less complicated too because planes and chisels register in the same slot in the LN guide (the cheap-o guide has different slots for each).
I needed a new notation because it’s really about 35.5°.
Interestingly, the LN guide is also wider. Or, rather, it doesn’t have the extra material in the middle, so on my largest blades (specifically, for my No. 7 plane), it didn’t register fully and introduced additional error. About 50% wider did the trick.
The old guide and the old jig will now live in my toolbox.
Speaking of which, the new tool box is also finished. It came out really great (if I do say so myself). It fits a No. 5 jack plane, a tenon saw or half-back saw and all the other accoutrements I may need for on-site work. And it looks really pretty.
Compare it to the old tool tote.
I have two complaints about it, though. First, I haven’t found any lifts that I like yet. Second, the eye on the transom chain anchor gets in the way sometimes, making it a little finicky to remove the tray. But that’s the cost of storage, I guess.
In progressing the standing desk build, I had to make a design choice regarding how to attach the back stretcher. But, more importantly, I had a practical choice to make. The angle of the back leg on each of the two frames is slightly off. Call it half a degree or so. Near the top of the assembly, there is no appreciable difference. 30″ or so down the legs, though, it’s nearly 3/16″ off.
I could, in theory, modify the cheek depth on one of the tenons and cant it very slightly to correct for this discrepancy. Or I could just run the stretcher near the top where the bag legs are, for all practical purposes, parallel. And if I’m doing that, why not in my impatience just lap a dovetail?
Half-lapped dovetails are an interesting joint. I personally find them aesthetically displeasing, even when executed perfectly. But they provide a mechanical resistance against tensile force that in other joints would require some sort of fastener (dowels, screws or bolts). And, like the comparable joints (mortise and tenon, half lap joint), they have significant long grain to long grain glue surface for maximum strength.
Ugly or not, this particular joint is not only on the back of the assembly, so I don’t have to every look at it again. Plus, it will be painted. So I’m happy with the choice.
Have I mentioned that Eastern White Pine is just the best? Because it is.
With the bathroom renovation fully underway, I couldn’t put off building the vanity any longer. Almost two years ago, I selected the design to generally rip off. Shortly thereafter, I purchased who knows how many board feet of 8/4 quartersawn white oak, which then sat in my workshop to acclimate for many months before dimensioning.
White Oak can be very beautiful and (being both waterproof and tough) it is perfect for applications like bathroom vanities. Hard Maple works well too. But unless it’s air dried, White Oak is just too damned hard to work with hand tools alone. Based on how tough it is (and the way it warped when acclimating in the shop), I assume this stock is kiln dried. So I didn’t even bother trying to chop the mortises by hand. Instead, I utilized the drill press like a mortising machine and pared each mortise to width with a chisel. I also squared the corners, because effort.
The tenons were no peach either. I typically saw tenon shoulders and then split the tenons cheeks (rather than saw them). A router plane then pares down the cheeks to get a piston fit. This approach works pretty well, even in kiln dried White Oak, as long as I don’t take too much of a bite with the router plane. But fine-tuning the tenon shoulders (i.e., end grain) with a shoulder plane is basically impossible. If I don’t saw perfectly to the line, it’s chisel paring or bust.
So after getting through the joinery on both end frames, I was ready for a change. Back to the Eastern White Pine standing desk I’m leisurely making for my home office! If you’ve been reading for any amount of time, you know that I prefer to torture myself with angled back legs and this desk build is no exception.
Why Eastern White Pine for desk, you may ask? Well, it’s my experience that a softer wood with a bit of flex is better in the long run for hands and elbows. I’ve been working on a quartersawn red oak desk for about five years now and I’m pretty sure I have arthritis in one elbow because of it. I’ve taken to using gel rests for both keyboard and mouse, but they don’t do anything to make up for the lack of flex.
These frames are only 34″ high overall (and will likely be down to 33.5″ when the feet are leveled). Add in two inches of bearer and two more inches of tabletop, and perhaps 3/8 of felt furniture pad, it’s still only about 38″ high. At just a bit over 5’10”, a perfect standing desk for me is about 40″ high. So where am I getting the rest of the height? From my ventilated laptop stand, of course!
The final desk won’t be quite as long or as wide as my current desk. I don’t work from home nearly as much as I used to, so there is just no good reason for a 76″ x 30″ desk. It takes up too much space. Something more like 60″ x 20″ will be plenty of real estate and will free up a fair amount of floor space.
But this new standing desk will make my current office chair pretty useless, so I need to find a decent 30″ stool with a backrest.
It’s been approximately six years since I started woodworking. Once and for all, I’ve grown out of the nylon tool tote I bought from Rings End all those years ago. So it’s time for a DIY toolbox.
It goes without saying, but any tool storage container should be sized to fit the tools it’s meant to hold. Specifically, the interior length should allow the longest tool to easily enter and exit (phrasing?) and the interior height should accommodate the tallest tool and any racks or tills. The interior width, however, is determined based on all the tools to be held.
In this case, the interior dimensions of 21.5″ x 9″ x 9″ accommodate a half-back saw that is about 21″ long and the combined height of a No. 5 jack plane and chisel tray. The width is based the till for that half back saw, plus that No. 5 jack plane, plus a large router plane (with 1/4″ spaces for French fitting in between to keep everything snug).
I went back and forth on how to do the floor of the tool box. I briefly considered 1/2″ plywood captured in a rabbet or groove, but I was impatient and assembled the case before plowing the groove. So tongue and groove pine nailed to the carcass it was. It doesn’t match the case, but this is a utilitarian piece.
I find the most joy in the repetitive tasks of hand tool woodworking. Sawing, chopping and shaping are great, but planing is where my heart truly lies. And none is more enjoyable than the process of planing tongues and grooves with the specialty tongue and groove plane. It has an opposable fence and cuts both parts of the joint.
In prior projects with tongue and groove floors, I typically work with the boards that I have and then trim off any extra. Which is fine when there is a skirt to hide the unevenness. But there is no skirt here, so I matched the width on the outer boards, and then matched the width on the next two boards, and I’ll size the middle board to fit. It will be rather narrow, but symmetrical nonetheless. You know, for my neuroses.